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Avant Garde Handmade Homespun J Morgan Puett Cross Over Linen Wrap Jacket Coat
$ 324.71
- Description
- Size Guide
Description
Vtg Avant Garde Lagenlook Handmade J Morgan Puett Shack Inc Cross Over Wrap Jacket Coat. Shipped with USPS Priority Mail.J Morgan Puett was something of a phenomen in the 1980's and 1990's. She got both a BFA and MFA in sculpture and painting, and then used her profound knowledge of form, color and texture to revolutionize the fashion industry.
Indeed, in my opinion, Puett's designs were important precursors not only to many of today's trends, but also to many important designers and design houses. Designers and design houses like Lilith of France, Oska, Rundholz, Crea Concept, Bodil, Noblu, Shirin Guild, Dusan, Eskandar, Jane Mohr, Krista Larson, and Cynthia Ashby, to name a few.
To put it another way, Puett lead the way. Her designs were organic, relaxed, sculptural and always inspired. They were lagenlook before lagenlook existed, modernist - with a nod to the future - and, sometimes, at the same time, Edwardian and Victorian.
In my opinion, this garment is a good example of Puett's work.
If it were simply left open in front - something I never did - it would fall in gentle folds in front like a waterfall jacket or wrap, with each front corner tailing off into a long sash-like extension. Let's call these the "tails" or "mini-obi's."
Since that is not how the jacket was intended to be worn, we need to discuss several other design elements. Besides these tails or mini-obis, which I have just described, there is a large slash or opening in the right front panel of the jacket.
The left front tail or mini-obi is intended to be pulled through that opening from the inside out, and pulled around to the back of the jacket. Photo #4 shows the left tail emerging from the slash and beginning its curve to the back. Meanwhile, the right front panel of the jacket, together with its tail or mini-obi, is pulled over the left front panel, around your left side and, again, to the jacket's back. This is pictured in photo #'s 2, 3, 4, 6 and 8.
There, in the middle of your back, the left and right tails or mini-obi's meet, snap together, and form one cohesive and continuous obi or back sash or belt. This is shown in photo #'s 1, 5, 10 and 12.
This action, of pulling these tails or mini-obis through and around and snapping them together, gives the entire garment its shape.
That shape is fluid, fluted, gathered and graceful. In addition to the features I've already described, the jacket has a raised back, drop or dropped shoulders, and large dolman sleeves.
In a word, the jacket is sculptural.
The Fabric: The fabric is 100% linen and looks like a gorgeous homespun. I would call the color wheat or a grainy tan, beige or caraway.
The jacket is lined in a flannel like material.
Stated Size: One Size Fits All (OSFA).
Very Approximate Measurements:
Shoulder to Shoulder: Approx. 20 inches.
One-way Across, Underarm to Underarm (with Jacket closed as I have described): 22 inches.
Sleeve Length from Shoulder to Sleeve End: 23 1/2 inches
Length from Top of Jacket to Bottom Hem: approx. 21 inches in front; 23 inches in back.
When closed as described, the jacket is somewhat longer in back than in front. I would describe the front length as appearing to be cropped at the waist, with the back a few inches longer. Please be aware, however, that the jacket is very difficult to measure.
PLEASE NOTE: This jacket is a vintage garment with all that that entails. While I do not see any specific issues to mention, you cannot expect it to be new or perfect or never to have been worn. It has been worn a
nd loved.